Harmukh Peak Expedition

Harmukh  Peak Expedition is the most sought-after mountaineering peak in Kashmir. Standing tall and reaching an altitude of 5,142m, this peak has been on the climbing itinerary since the time of the British Era. The peak is a towering mountain in the entire Kashmir and has been tried to be scaled every year by different mountaineers. This peak forms the part of the Himalayan Range and stands between the Sindh River and the Kishanganga river. The glacier of this lake drains into and forms the Sindh River and Wangath river. The Karakoram Range is towards its north side and towards its south is Kashmir valley.

Harmukh mountain is also the reason for the formation of the largest alpine lake of Kashmir called Gangabal that is situated at the hem of this mountain. This peak and Gangabal lake are revered by Kashmiri Hindus and there is an annual pilgrimage to it. 

Harmukh mountain has five summit routes, and its Eastern Summit (5142 m) is the 4th highest mountain peak in the Kashmir valley. The peak was first scaled in 1856 by the British Trigonometric Surveyor Thomas Montgomerie. It’s mostly climbed from the northwestern route of Arin, Bandipora district. The most challenging route is its north face; many climbing attempts have failed in this route. The five thousand feet vertical wall from its north face made of ice and rocks has given it a sobriquet The Eiger of Kashmir. It was from Mount Harmukh that in 1865 K1 (locally known as Masherbrum) and K2 were discovered.

Arin Route: Start from the last village of Arin Kudara. A fifteen km long mild gradient trek through pine forests leads to the Base Camp (3300 m) known as Shirazsar Valley. An early start towards the Advance Base Camp (4700 m) also makes the summit camp for the Peak.

Harmukh Peak Itinerary

Mount Harmukh Valley is a seven-day expedition. The expedition has a base camp situated in Sheraz Valley which rests at an altitude of 3300m. The base camp is an 18 km trek from the nearest village Kudara, Arin Bandipora.

The summit camp is at 4700m altitude, and the summit is mostly tried by its Eastern Peak.

In total there are five summits to Harmukh Peak: Station Peak Summit, Survey Peak Summit, Northern Summit, Western Summit, and Eastern Summit.

The peak has not been summited yet through its Northern and Eastern Side which gives it the name ‘Eager of Kashmir’